I Sentieri may be smaller and less celebrity glitzy, but it still has the buzz
You're booking a table for a nice night out, so which is it to be: punctilious precision in a bubble of privileged privacy; or something a bit warmer and jazzier, with a personal touch, plenty of atmosphere and a hint of glamour? Each to their own, of course, but — all things being equal when it comes to the cooking — we know which we prefer. And we know where to find it. Make that a table for two at Mario i Sentieri.
It's been more than a year since Mario Frittoli closed down Luxor, his ritzy, high-end ristorante in Shirokanedai and moved to his current premises in the better-trod back streets of Nishi-Azabu. It was a retrenchment, certainly, in tune with the economic climate; but it has also brought him back closer to his core clientele — those that appreciate the quality of his creative cucina.
I Sentieri — the name means a trail or mountain footpath — may be smaller and less celebrity glitzy, but it still has the buzz expected from Mario (thanks to his books and TV shows, everyone knows him on a first-name-only basis).
A curving flight of stairs leads up from the street to imposing metal doors. Inside, the color scheme is moody matte black and glowing red, with a couple of large contemporary artworks against the far wall and subtle lighting to illuminate the tablecloths. The feel is operatic, much like the background music — sensuous, passionate, serious but with a sense of fun.
There's a small bar counter on one side of the room, where you can perch youself and nurse a drink while waiting for your table to free up or even settle in for a light snack. But the focus of the room is the long rectangular window to the brightly lit open kitchen, where Mario directs the proceedings, observing the dining room and saluting customers as they arrive...
Mario i Sentieri
Location: 4-1-10 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku
(03) 6418-7072www.mario-frittoli.com
Open: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (last order 1:30 p.m.); 6 p.m.-midnight (last order 11 p.m.); closed: Sun. and Sat. lunch
Nearest station: Roppongi (Hibiya & Oedo lines), Hiroo (Hibiya Line), Nogizaka (Chiyoda Line)
How to get there: From the Nishi-Azabu Crossing, walk along Roppongi-dori (in the direction of Shibuya) and take the first side street to the left (by Almond coffee shop). You will see the stairway leading up to Mario i Sentieri on the left after about 30 meters.
What works: Mario does it his way: sensuous cucina in a setting to suit.
What doesn't: Be prepared to wait if you haven't booked ahead.
Number of seats: 44, plus 6 at the bar
Smoking: Only at the bar seats
Price per head: Lunch: from ¥1,000; dinner menu from ¥7,000, also a la carte; 10 percent service charge added (dinner only)
Drinks: ¥800; aperitivi from ¥1,000; wine from ¥1,000/glass (¥500 at lunch), from ¥5,000/bottle; digestivi from ¥1,000/shot
Credit cards: Major cards accepted
Language: Japanese/English/Italian menus; English and Italian spoken
Reservations: Highly recommended
