A favorite chef's overdue return
Fantastic news: Restaurant J has returned. After a gap of over four years, one of our most talented chefs, Masahito Ueki, is back in action in Tokyo.
For longtime readers of this column, Ueki will need little introduction. Over the last 11 years, we have followed his progress from Tableaux to Stellato (from its very opening) and thence to the original Restaurant J, a superb little contemporary bistro that many (the Food File included) still rate among their all-time favorites.
Now, after an unforgivably long absence in self-imposed exile up in Nagano Prefecture, as executive chef of Masaa's in Karuizawa, here he is again. And he's raised the ante one more time. Those hoping for a reprise of the old J — chic but slightly scuffed around the edges; superb value for special occasions — will need to adjust their expectations several notches upmarket.
No obscure off-off-Omotesando location for him this time: The new J is firmly in the heart of the mainstream. He has taken over the restaurant above (and formerly operated by) Enoteca wine store in Hiroo, just steps away from Arisugawa Park and the National-Azabu store. It's early days yet — J only opened for business in the first week of October — but this venue could be a perfect match.
The main dining room is formal and crisp, filled with sunlight at lunchtime, more subtly lit in the evening. There are also a couple of small side rooms for more private occasions, and a handful of outside tables on a sunny, secluded veranda. Wherever, this is a place to get dressed up for. The food is definitely worth it.
Restaurant J
Arisugawa West 2F, 5-14-15 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku; (03) 5798-9070
Arisugawa West 2F, 5-14-15 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku; (03) 5798-9070
Open: lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm
Open: lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm
café 11:30 am-5 pm
dinner 6-10:30 pm (last order)
bar 6 pm-4 am (6-midnight. Sun. and holidays)
How to get there: From the Hiroo Crossing, take the side street by the Tokyo Mitsubishi UFJ Bank (in the direction of the National Azabu store). Turn left at the first side street. After about 50 meters you will see the giant bottle marking the entrance to the Enoteca wine store, and behind it the stairs up to Restaurant J.
What works: Masahito Ueki's inventive cuisine is better than ever.
What doesn't: Some may find the atmosphere a bit too formal.
Number of seats: 50 in dining room; private rooms for 14; outside tables for 11
BGM: Classical to jazz, mostly unobtrusive
Smoking: Only allowed on the veranda
Price per head: Lunch plate ¥1,500, set meals from ¥2,800; dinner menu from ¥4,800, also a la carte; 10 percent service charge.
Drinks: Apertifs from ¥1,000; beer from ¥650; wine from ¥1,000/glass, from ¥5,000/bottle; digestifs from ¥1,000
Credit cards: Major cards accepted
Language: Japanese/English menu; English spoken
