bills Yokohama Aka-renga Soko (045) 650-1266

Pancakes, scrambled eggs and more, a taste of Sydney in Yokohama

The Japan Times, Friday, April 2, 2010

One of the Food File's all-time favorite settings for breakfast in Japan — lunch and dinner, too — has to be bills , Aussie chef Bill Granger's stylish beachfront cafe/restaurant on the Kamakura coast. The good news is that there's now a second branch, and it's a lot more convenient if you're living or working in Yokohama, or just visiting for the day.

Once again, he has a prime waterfront location, this time in the atmospheric, century-old Red Brick Warehouses. With a view out onto the lapping harbor, the feel is very Sydney casual-chic. The main dining room is rather plusher than at the original Shichirigahama branch, with the added bonus of a spacious terrace. Currently it's still enclosed, but as soon as the weather permits this will be open to allow very pleasant al fresco eating.

If you're familiar with the menu at the original bills there will be few surprises. All of Granger's signature dishes are present and correct, including ricotta pancakes, sweet corn fritters, wagyu burgers and the delectable organic scrambled eggs that first put his name on the map. Add to that list a Yokohama original — Berry Berry Pancakes, served with a selection of red soft fruits and a generous patty of berry-infused butter.

However, just because it's bigger and closer to the city, that doesn't mean it will be any easier to get a table. Even in last weekend's unseasonably chilly weather, there were long waits. Once the word spreads, the lines will likely stretch around the block. So get there early in the morning: You know at least they'll have breakfast waiting for you.

map here...

bills Yokohama Aka-renga Soko

Red Brick Warehouse Building #2, 1-1-2 Shinko, Naka-ku, Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa-ken; (045) 650-1266; bills-jp.net

nearest station: Bashamichi (Minato-mirai Line)

Open 9 a.m.-11 p.m. (last food order 10 p.m.)

A16 (03) 3212-5215

Pizza and pasta in peace and quiet

The Japan Times, Friday, March 5, 2010

Spring may not be here for real just yet, but it's never too early to celebrate the first al fresco lunch of the year. So when last week's unseasonably warm spell arrived we knew exactly where to go — into the heart of the city, to grab an outside table at A16.

We had two compelling reasons for this choice. The casual Californian-Italian cooking at this San Francisco transplant hits exactly the right note for a light, leisurely meal at any time of day. And the location is about as good as it gets in central Tokyo.

A16 takes its name from the autostrada that cuts across southern Italy from Naples to Puglia. Just as at the parent restaurant in San Francisco, the idea is to showcase the hearty, healthy cooking of that region, especially the province of Campania. That means plenty of good antipasti, pasta and wine, all presented in easygoing U.S. West Coast style.

Since the inspiration is Naples, there has to be pizza. And sure enough, dominating the dining room you see the twin pizza ovens with their flickering flames and handsome brickwork chimneys. Although safety regulations here require them to be gas-fired rather than wood-burning, everything else about them is true to the original spirit, channeling those authentic Neapolitan flavors.

But it wasn't just the pizza we were there for; it was the piazza outside. A16 occupies a prime position inside the remarkable Brick Square, a pedestrian -only space almost entirely closed off from the surrounding streets. With the traffic out of sight and virtually out of earshot, it's hard to believe you're in the center of Marunouchi, just a minute's walk from Tokyo Station.

Since it opened last autumn, this little plaza has given the city something it has sorely lacked — a public area that's not a mall or slotted in as an afterthought between skyscrapers. The small garden boasts trees and shrubs (though not yet in leaf), a sward of lawn, benches where you can read or people-watch, and up above, a proper view of the open sky.
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map here...

A16 Location: Marunouchi Brick Square 1F, 2-6-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku (03) 3212-5215; www.giraud.co.jp/a16 Open: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (Sunday & holidays 11 a.m.-10 p.m.) Nearest station: Tokyo (JR & Marunouchi Line) How to get there: From Tokyo JR Station (Marunouchi South Exit), cross to the Marunouchi Building, turn left and walk in the direction of Yurakucho. Just after the next lights, you will see the entrance to Brick Square. The entrance to A16 is on the inside plaza. What works: Outside tables with views of greenery and brickwork — and no traffic What doesn't: There's not a great selection of entrees. Number of seats: 92 plus 30 outside Smoking: No restrictions Price per head: Pizza from ¥1,300; pasta from ¥1,200; main dishes from ¥2,000 Drinks: Beer from ¥630; wine from ¥600/glass, ¥3,300/bottle Cards: Major cards accepted Language: Japanese/English menu; English spoken Reservations: Recommended

Matsubara-an (0467) 61-3838

Making soba a fresh tradition

The Japan Times, Friday Jan.8, 2010

From the very first sip of aromatic otoso sake and steaming-hot ozoni soup, we always love the time-honored ritual and ceremony of New Year's in Japan. But even more than that, we like it when the hallowed traditions are brought up to date and placed in a contemporary context. That's the way they do it at Matsubara-an.

The main dining room is beautifully restored with impeccable shoji screens, period lampshades, retro furnishings and views out onto the garden. But the tatami mats are covered with carpets, and instead of zabuton cushions you sit at stylish modern tables and chairs.

Too often this kind of hybrid look can feel stilted and forced, but at Matsubara-an the mood is comfortably casual. A buzz of conversation drowns out the bossa nova emitting from the sound system. The waitresses are polite but friendly, putting you immediately at ease.

The menu reflects a similar blend of simplicity and sophistication; Japanese and Western, traditional and modern. The specialty of the house is te-uchi soba, buckwheat noodles that are prepared fresh each day, rolled out and cut by hand and served with considerable refinement. However, there's plenty more to explore at Matsubara-an besides noodles.

Just take a look at the mixed hors d'oeuvres plate...

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Matsubara-an
4-10-3 Yuigahama, Kamakura-shi, Kanagawa-ken
tel: (0467) 61-3838
Open: Daily 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
Nearest stations: Yuigahama (Enoshima Dentetsu Line); Kamakura (JR Yokosuka Line)
Map here...