A masterclass at the counter
Simplicity and refinement highlight classic, traditional flavors at Tempura Uoshin
Among Tokyo's specialist restaurants, Tempura Uoshin in Nishi-Azabu may not rank in the highest echelons — after just two years in business that might be considered presumptuous. But it certainly has the gravitas and polish you'd expect from the offshoot of Totoya Uoshin, a ryoriya in Akasaka boasting more than 110 years of history, and a Michelin star to go with it.Like the parent restaurant, Uoshin does not flaunt its presence. Tucked away on the second floor behind the hulking rear wall of Gonpachi (a Japanese gastrodome no-one has ever called modest), the decor is plain and the layout intimate — a single L-shaped scrubbed-wood counter just big enough to seat 10, with a small table at the back for four more. The feel is old-school traditional, with not a hair out of place — and absolutely no aroma of cooking oil.Chef Shinji Miyazaki is a 27-year veteran of the tempura wok. After working two decades at Uoshin's branch in Roppongi (now long gone), he oversaw the launch of a sister restaurant in Nihonbashi before returning to his former territory to open this branch in Nishi-Azabu.Dressed in crisp white, he works solo, helped by a single assistant out of sight in the prep kitchen and a kimono-clad waitress. His movements are meticulous, unhurried, almost effortless, making the process of batter-frying morsels of fish or vegetables seem so simple. That is deceptive: getting it absolutely right every time requires considerable expertise. His tempura is orthodox and precise. In contrast with the heavy traditional style of old Tokyo, his cooking is light, almost airy in its refinement. It also tastes exceptionally good.
2F Iwata Building 1-12-10 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku (03) 3796-4041 Closed: Sundays and holidaysNearest station:Roppongi (Hibiya and Oedo lines)How to get there: From Roppongi Station (Exit 2), walk down Roppongi-dori toward Nishi-Azabu. Just before you reach the Nishi-Azabu Crossing, turn left (along the side of Gompachi). You will see the stairs leading up to Uoshin on the right after about 40 meters.What works: Great value for quality tempuraWhat doesn't: The interior is very plain and sober.Number of seats: 10 at the counter and one table for 4Smoking: Permitted but discouragedPrice per head: Lunch: tendonfrom ¥1,575, set menus from ¥3,150; dinner menu from ¥8,400, also a la carte; 10 percent service chargeDrinks: Beer from ¥630; sake from ¥840; shochu ¥840; wine from ¥945/glass, from ¥3,150/bottleCredit cards: Major cards acceptedLanguage: Japanese and English menus; a little English spokenReservations: Recommended
A masterclass at the counter
Simplicity and refinement highlight classic, traditional flavors at Tempura Uoshin
Among Tokyo's specialist restaurants, Tempura Uoshin in Nishi-Azabu may not rank in the highest echelons — after just two years in business that might be considered presumptuous. But it certainly has the gravitas and polish you'd expect from the offshoot of Totoya Uoshin, a ryoriya in Akasaka boasting more than 110 years of history, and a Michelin star to go with it.Like the parent restaurant, Uoshin does not flaunt its presence. Tucked away on the second floor behind the hulking rear wall of Gonpachi (a Japanese gastrodome no-one has ever called modest), the decor is plain and the layout intimate — a single L-shaped scrubbed-wood counter just big enough to seat 10, with a small table at the back for four more. The feel is old-school traditional, with not a hair out of place — and absolutely no aroma of cooking oil.Chef Shinji Miyazaki is a 27-year veteran of the tempura wok. After working two decades at Uoshin's branch in Roppongi (now long gone), he oversaw the launch of a sister restaurant in Nihonbashi before returning to his former territory to open this branch in Nishi-Azabu.Dressed in crisp white, he works solo, helped by a single assistant out of sight in the prep kitchen and a kimono-clad waitress. His movements are meticulous, unhurried, almost effortless, making the process of batter-frying morsels of fish or vegetables seem so simple. That is deceptive: getting it absolutely right every time requires considerable expertise. His tempura is orthodox and precise. In contrast with the heavy traditional style of old Tokyo, his cooking is light, almost airy in its refinement. It also tastes exceptionally good.
2F Iwata Building 1-12-10 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku (03) 3796-4041 Closed: Sundays and holidaysNearest station:Roppongi (Hibiya and Oedo lines)How to get there: From Roppongi Station (Exit 2), walk down Roppongi-dori toward Nishi-Azabu. Just before you reach the Nishi-Azabu Crossing, turn left (along the side of Gompachi). You will see the stairs leading up to Uoshin on the right after about 40 meters.What works: Great value for quality tempuraWhat doesn't: The interior is very plain and sober.Number of seats: 10 at the counter and one table for 4Smoking: Permitted but discouragedPrice per head: Lunch: tendonfrom ¥1,575, set menus from ¥3,150; dinner menu from ¥8,400, also a la carte; 10 percent service chargeDrinks: Beer from ¥630; sake from ¥840; shochu ¥840; wine from ¥945/glass, from ¥3,150/bottleCredit cards: Major cards acceptedLanguage: Japanese and English menus; a little English spokenReservations: Recommended
A masterclass at the counter
Simplicity and refinement highlight classic, traditional flavors at Tempura Uoshin
Like the parent restaurant, Uoshin does not flaunt its presence. Tucked away on the second floor behind the hulking rear wall of Gonpachi (a Japanese gastrodome no-one has ever called modest), the decor is plain and the layout intimate — a single L-shaped scrubbed-wood counter just big enough to seat 10, with a small table at the back for four more. The feel is old-school traditional, with not a hair out of place — and absolutely no aroma of cooking oil.
Chef Shinji Miyazaki is a 27-year veteran of the tempura wok. After working two decades at Uoshin's branch in Roppongi (now long gone), he oversaw the launch of a sister restaurant in Nihonbashi before returning to his former territory to open this branch in Nishi-Azabu.
Dressed in crisp white, he works solo, helped by a single assistant out of sight in the prep kitchen and a kimono-clad waitress. His movements are meticulous, unhurried, almost effortless, making the process of batter-frying morsels of fish or vegetables seem so simple. That is deceptive: getting it absolutely right every time requires considerable expertise. His tempura is orthodox and precise. In contrast with the heavy traditional style of old Tokyo, his cooking is light, almost airy in its refinement. It also tastes exceptionally good.
2F Iwata Building 1-12-10 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku
(03) 3796-4041
Closed: Sundays and holidays
Nearest station:Roppongi (Hibiya and Oedo lines)
How to get there: From Roppongi Station (Exit 2), walk down Roppongi-dori toward Nishi-Azabu. Just before you reach the Nishi-Azabu Crossing, turn left (along the side of Gompachi). You will see the stairs leading up to Uoshin on the right after about 40 meters.
What works: Great value for quality tempura
What doesn't: The interior is very plain and sober.Number of seats: 10 at the counter and one table for 4
Smoking: Permitted but discouraged
Price per head: Lunch: tendonfrom ¥1,575, set menus from ¥3,150; dinner menu from ¥8,400, also a la carte; 10 percent service charge
Drinks: Beer from ¥630; sake from ¥840; shochu ¥840; wine from ¥945/glass, from ¥3,150/bottle
Credit cards: Major cards accepted
Language: Japanese and English menus; a little English spoken
Reservations: Recommended
