Lauderdale (03) 3405-5533

Roppongi breakfast...

The Japan Times, Friday, April 2, 2010

Breakfast and afternoon tea: Two meals that rarely get discussed in this column. It's not a question of bias. It's just there are very few places in town that get them right.

In the case of breakfast, Tokyo really doesn't seem to bother. If you're not inside one of the larger hotels, you can forget about getting anything more substantial than coffee and a danish. Unless you're close to Roppongi Hills, that is, and the welcoming early morning glow emanating from Lauderdale.

To find anywhere serving a good cooked breakfast at 7 in the morning is in itself noteworthy. But to sit down in such a relaxed setting — high ceilings, mix-and-match old wooden furniture, a bar at one end and a comfy banquette at the other — is cause for outright celebration. So is Lauderdale's menu.

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Lauderdale

6-15-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; (03) 3405 5533; www.lauderdale.co.j

Nearest station: Roppongi (Hibiya and Oedo lines)

Open: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. (Sat. and Sun., 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; brunch served till 4 p.m.)

Ryugin (03) 3423-8006

Refined flair in the dragon's lair

This is power decor for power dining, Ryugin-style

The Japan Times: Friday, Dec. 18, 2009

It's that season once again, when we pause, look back and savor some of the outstanding meals we have enjoyed over the past year. High on that list has to be going back to eat at Ryugin last month.

This brilliant, high-end Japanese restaurant on the outer fringe of Roppongi is no secret now. How could it be with three consecutive appearances in the mighty Michelin Guide? But when it first opened, back in December 2003, it quietly built up a loyal following and an almost cult reputation on the strength of the innovative approach of its young chef, Seiji Yamamoto.

Just 33 when he set up Ryugin, Yamamoto took inspiration from the new-wave culinary techniques being developed in Europe, especially Spain, adapting them to the Japanese tradition. However, although his cuisine was well worthy of its two-star status, there was one drawback — the setting just didn't look or feel as exciting as the food that was being served.

All that changed this year. In February, Ryugin underwent a major refurbishment, emerging transformed as if from a chrysalis. Out went the sleek but bland interior that could have been anywhere in the world; in its place is an ornate, elaborate dining room that's a one-of-a-kind.

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Ryugin
7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku; tel: (03) 3423-8006;
www.nihonryori-ryugin.com
Open: 6 p.m.-1 a.m. (last seating 10:30 p.m.)
Closed: Sun. and national holidays
Nearest stations: Roppongi (Hibiya and Oedo lines)
How to get there: From Roppongi Station Exit 2, walk along Roppongi-dori (in the direction of Shibuya), then turn right down the first side street. You will see the steps leading up to Ryugin on the right after about 100 meters.
What works: Outstanding contemporary take on kaiseki tradition.
What doesn't: It's too bad Ryugin no longer offers a la carte options.
Number of seats: 20 (plus a private room for 4)
No-smoking areas: All no-smoking
Price per head: Fixed menu at ¥23,100 per head (10 percent service charge added)
Drinks: Champagne from ¥1,800; beer ¥700; sake from ¥1,300; wine from ¥1,800/glass, from ¥8,000/bottle; digestifs from ¥1,500
Credit cards: Major cards accepted
Language: Japanese/English menu; English spoken
Reservations: Essential — check Web site for details.

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