Refined flair in the dragon's lair
This is power decor for power dining, Ryugin-style
This brilliant, high-end Japanese restaurant on the outer fringe of Roppongi is no secret now. How could it be with three consecutive appearances in the mighty Michelin Guide? But when it first opened, back in December 2003, it quietly built up a loyal following and an almost cult reputation on the strength of the innovative approach of its young chef, Seiji Yamamoto.
Just 33 when he set up Ryugin, Yamamoto took inspiration from the new-wave culinary techniques being developed in Europe, especially Spain, adapting them to the Japanese tradition. However, although his cuisine was well worthy of its two-star status, there was one drawback — the setting just didn't look or feel as exciting as the food that was being served.
All that changed this year. In February, Ryugin underwent a major refurbishment, emerging transformed as if from a chrysalis. Out went the sleek but bland interior that could have been anywhere in the world; in its place is an ornate, elaborate dining room that's a one-of-a-kind.
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Ryugin
7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku; tel: (03) 3423-8006;
www.nihonryori-ryugin.com
Open: 6 p.m.-1 a.m. (last seating 10:30 p.m.)
Closed: Sun. and national holidays
Nearest stations: Roppongi (Hibiya and Oedo lines)
How to get there: From Roppongi Station Exit 2, walk along Roppongi-dori (in the direction of Shibuya), then turn right down the first side street. You will see the steps leading up to Ryugin on the right after about 100 meters.
What works: Outstanding contemporary take on kaiseki tradition.
What doesn't: It's too bad Ryugin no longer offers a la carte options.
Number of seats: 20 (plus a private room for 4)
No-smoking areas: All no-smoking
Price per head: Fixed menu at ¥23,100 per head (10 percent service charge added)
Drinks: Champagne from ¥1,800; beer ¥700; sake from ¥1,300; wine from ¥1,800/glass, from ¥8,000/bottle; digestifs from ¥1,500
Credit cards: Major cards accepted
Language: Japanese/English menu; English spoken
Reservations: Essential — check Web site for details.
7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku; tel: (03) 3423-8006;
www.nihonryori-ryugin.com
Open: 6 p.m.-1 a.m. (last seating 10:30 p.m.)
Closed: Sun. and national holidays
Nearest stations: Roppongi (Hibiya and Oedo lines)
How to get there: From Roppongi Station Exit 2, walk along Roppongi-dori (in the direction of Shibuya), then turn right down the first side street. You will see the steps leading up to Ryugin on the right after about 100 meters.
What works: Outstanding contemporary take on kaiseki tradition.
What doesn't: It's too bad Ryugin no longer offers a la carte options.
Number of seats: 20 (plus a private room for 4)
No-smoking areas: All no-smoking
Price per head: Fixed menu at ¥23,100 per head (10 percent service charge added)
Drinks: Champagne from ¥1,800; beer ¥700; sake from ¥1,300; wine from ¥1,800/glass, from ¥8,000/bottle; digestifs from ¥1,500
Credit cards: Major cards accepted
Language: Japanese/English menu; English spoken
Reservations: Essential — check Web site for details.
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