Designs for both palate and palette
The Japan Times, Friday, March 19, 2010
It was one of those hot tips that come our way from time to time. This one, though, was delivered with a caveat: "A fantastic little French place, as good as any in town for the price; but the location's so obscure no one knows about it. It's called Le Dessin."
We certainly hadn't heard of it — nor even of Ushigome-Yanagicho, the nearest subway station. But our interest was piqued. Within days we had a table booked and were scanning our maps of the Oedo Line and nether Shinjuku Ward. We were also keeping our fingers crossed that the journey would be worth it.The recommendation was right on the button. Even if you lived nearby, you'd probably call the neighborhood obscure. And you'd need to have a keen eye to guess that anything of great interest lay behind Le Dessin's unassuming frontage, with its anonymous door opening onto an unlovely stretch of Okubo-dori.
We certainly hadn't heard of it — nor even of Ushigome-Yanagicho, the nearest subway station. But our interest was piqued. Within days we had a table booked and were scanning our maps of the Oedo Line and nether Shinjuku Ward. We were also keeping our fingers crossed that the journey would be worth it.
The recommendation was right on the button. Even if you lived nearby, you'd probably call the neighborhood obscure. And you'd need to have a keen eye to guess that anything of great interest lay behind Le Dessin's unassuming frontage, with its anonymous door opening onto an unlovely stretch of Okubo-dori.
There's no denying it's small, either. The cozy dining room has just space enough for seven petite tables. But this is intentional. It's not just a matter of comfort; this is the maximum number of people that the kitchen can cater to.
That's because Le Dessin's chef, Toshiaki Masuda, works entirely solo. Everything in the kitchen, as compact as a ship's galley, he does himself — from prep work and bread baking to cleaning up the spotless space. And taking care of everything in the front of house is his wife.
Don't make the mistake of thinking this is a typical pop-and-mom diner. It may seem modest in scale, but this is not just another basic bistro. Le Dessin is a full-fledged restaurant, with no corners cut but also a total lack of pretension. And Masuda is a true chef, one who cooks for the love of it.
You can tell by the amount of attention and creativity he lavishes on every dish. One of his signature starters is his vegetable terrine, a densely packed tranche of seasonal vegetables set in aspic, cut in cross-section and wrapped in a thin layer of pink ham. It's arranged exquisitely on the plate, with extra veggies on the side and swooshes of sauce in vivid greens, oranges and earth browns, with flavors as intense as the colors.
This was one of the opening courses we were served at a leisurely lunch a couple of Saturdays ago. Masuda doesn't bother to open for lunch on weekdays, partly because there are so few people around in this area, but mainly he doesn't want to be rushed and have to cut corners. On weekends, though, he has time to pull out the stops. Whether you order the three-course menu (¥1,950) or four (¥2,800), you can expect to spend a couple of hours at the table.
Dinner at Le Dessin is equally impressive and even better value...
2-6-7 Haramachi, Shinjuku-ku
(03) 3353-2223; www.eatpia.com/ledessin/index.html
Nearest station: Ushigome-Yanagicho (Oedo Line)
How to get there: Leave Ushigome-Yanagicho Station by the West Exit and walk straight ahead to the main street. Turn left and you will see Le Dessin on your left straight away.
What works: Brilliant flavors and artistry; superb cost performance
What doesn't: Be prepared for long waits between courses
Number of seats: 14
Smoking: Not permitted
Price per head: Set lunch menus ¥1,950 & ¥2,800; set dinner menus ¥4,300 & ¥5,500
Drinks: Beer ¥650; sherry ¥650; wine from ¥700/glass, ¥4,000/bottle; digestifs from ¥1,200
Cards: Not accepted (cash only)
Language: Japanese/English menu; English not spoken
Reservations: Essential
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